Art punk leader, Godmother of Punk empowered Salar Bil the Godfather of conceptual fashion based in Tehran as a master of Punk literature, Patti made him a special T-shirt and a special copy of Just Kids with admiration and friendship, Bil’s 2020 iconic Punk, ware and Persian Couture visual was inspired by a treatise written by Albert O. Hirschman. & COVID-19 began after the collection, The work hinges on a conceptual ultimatum that confronts consumers in the face of deteriorating quality of goods: either exit or voice. has been applied to topics such as protest movements, migration, political parties, and interest groups, as well as to personal relationships, after that salar went for another trilogy “The Rhetoric of Reaction: Perversity, Futility, Jeopardy” and he worked on Hirschman’s idea as he said day and night, that book draws his examples from three successive waves of reactive thought that arose in response to the liberal ideas of the French Revolution and the Declaration of the Rights of Man, to democratization and the drive toward universal suffrage in the nineteenth century, and to the welfare state in our own century, on the other hand Vivienne Westwood enjoyed Salar’s fabric prints and he really admire Vivienne as well, Salar via WhatsApp answered that in the new International relations neo-liberalism did not only have social-economic and political effects, but it also created spaces that allowed for new discourses related to culture and national identity.
Q: let’s start out the interview
With general questions: in your Interviews. You mention that you studied cinema then after private sewing classes you entered the fashion industry and you are also the first designers who founded new fashion in Iran. So, concerning your experiences, what is fashion? & why fashion?
BIL: for me, fashion is not just a name to show how well we dressed up. To me, It signifies an
Industry shaped in the first world than developed in the third world. in my language.
People differentiate fashion from mode and i really don’t understand why they doing such things because logically these two words are synonym. But if we consider not only dresses but shoes, accessories,hairstyles and body shapes we understand that something at a time is a la mode which means it is fashionable, in other words fashion means to look different
Q: each of your collections is based on a concept can you explain a little more about the concepts you worked on in your collections?
BIL: In fact, i see my collections in dual sets and sometimes i put them in contrast to each other but in the end, each collection is related to other collections. It means that these collections are shaping a fashion network. For example we have “glamor of bandar” which is about how the cities in the global south developed on one hand, we have “bionic” which is about how capitalism changes the way we perceived our bodies, so each collection is a pole of a dipole. Another example could be the”false dichotomy” which opposed to “bipolar” and they complete each other, “golha”is the result of all of dialectics after individualism and collectivism.
Q: after 2020 you start to work on a
collection about cultural appropriation. Could you elaborate more about it? And why “EXIT, VOICE.
AND LOYALTY” is an important collection to understand this shift in your work?
BIL: right now. i am involved in multidisciplinary work. In other words, i represent myself new each day. for example, one day i am a Photographer. One day a designer.
The other day a poet and now day i am a writer and researcher. But appropriation is another question that i can only find answers to by writings because Writing could be interpreted as as appropriated thing. the appropriation for some people is plagiarism but definitely , we need to .draw a line between both If you take away the appropriation.
The most important work in modern art disappeared. So appropriation is a way of making things. So after sanction and the current economic Situation, i either should quit my career or start from the beginning In a new form. And appropriation Allows me to develop my career and expand the boundaries
Q: do you think there is a fashion history in Iran? Does fashion history
Influence your works? And which designer influences you the most?
BIL: i think TEHRAN FASHION WEEK is the first step toward the fashion world but about the history of fashion in Iran i am not really sure.
when we look back there is no history of clothes we have politics of wearing the clothes. So i think Instead of the history of fashion we have politics of fashion the trend is the point that i study. 18TH CENTURY 17TH and since the Rise, from baroque and rococo we see a decline in fashion and it 21ST century as a continued to the form of globalism. But each designer has its own Manifest for example look at Betsey Johnson or Rick Owens they have Their unique manifest. But i am more into glam punk and i think the only designer i feel so close to is Vivienne Westwood. She is who Brings modern punk and new wave Fashions into the mainstream and i am learning a lot from her.
Q: what is your manifest? and why you chose fashion as someone who practices most of arts and writings?
BIL: first of all my first promise to me was fighting for injustices in my own space and time and not getting into any kind of mold or definitions and fashion to me is about breaking the rules, not clothes actually with understaning clothing’s history you know it’s all about breaking rules and moving forwards, i don’t wanna sound devotional or feigned but i’m solving my own society’s problems with articles and appropriation and strategies but to me as a 90’s boy in this current century fashion is just a freedom of expression and understanding that each one of us wanna live in our own liberties.